South Korea’s most beautiful temple keeps a surprising secret
By Lilit Marcus, CNN
(CNN) — Perched along a craggy rock overhang, the ornate Buddhist temple provides sweeping views of the sea, making it a popular place to watch the sun rise against the beauty of Busan, South Korea’s second-largest city.
But Haedong Yonggungsa is so much more than a place of worship.
The temple has become the number-one attraction that international tourists want to see when they come to the city, according to local travel companies. The contrast of the tall white Buddhist statues against the dramatic rock formations and the crashing crest of waves is striking, and that’s not a coincidence: Its location was chosen according to the principles of pungsu jiri, which is similar to feng shui — the spot between the mountains and the sea was considered lucky.
It’s instantly recognizable among the social media-savvy set, who have made Haedong Yonggungsa a visual as synonymous with Busan as the Harbour Bridge in Sydney or the Statue of Liberty in New York — something they can identify even if they’ve never set foot there.
“The majority of our customers want the daylight during the Yonggungsa Temple for the pictures,” says Jung “JJ” Jiho, a founder of the Korean tour company Lecirt.
Jung says he and his staff are always available to help set up and take photos for their clients, and some even suggest the best angles or places to stand.
Being on hand to help take the perfect Instagram snapshot is a standard part of the job of tour guides these days. But it also hints at how tourism to South Korea has changed in the last decade, as the country rides the “Korean Wave” of popularity brought on by the global success of K-Pop, K-Dramas, and Korean skincare and beauty products.
“Before COVID, the tourism market [in South Korea] was more of a package tour that included the hotels and the flights,” says Jung. “I’m going to say 5-7 years ago, the trend of the market changed to individual tours. Customers want to have more free time.”
Busan has been given the nickname “City of Cinema” due to the success of the Busan International Film Festival, which it has hosted every fall since 1996.
Its pop culture value has risen internationally thanks to movies like “Train to Busan,” and its warmer, beachier climate — which includes a burgeoning surfing community. It also draws tourists who want to mix their city trip with some outdoor time. And while Buddhist temples are plentiful throughout the country, Haedong Yonggungsa is one of very few that’s on the ocean.
Busan, Jung says, has become a place where tourists come to explore deeper. They are often repeat visitors to South Korea who want to learn more and stay longer. They are also younger and more independent, opting to book their own flights and accommodations. However, they rely on local experts to show them the best spots in town — especially the ones that only Korean speakers can access.
In response, Lecirt started offering daytrip tours with more customizable itineraries, nearly all of which include Haedong Yonggungsa.
The company’s “Hi Busan” day tours can also include stops at the Gamcheon Culture Village, a neighborhood devastated by the Korean War that has been painted over with pastels and murals, and lunch at the city’s Jagalchi fish market, where customers can purchase live seafood at one of the myriad stalls, then head upstairs to have it prepared to their liking.
Although Haedong Yonggungsa is beautiful — some even refer to it as the most beautiful temple in the country — Jung says that tourists want more than a photo. In particular, he says, Western tourists are interested in Korean history and want to get context for what they’re seeing, especially if they didn’t study Asian history in school.
That includes the background of Haedong Yonggungsa.
More than just a picture
The temple was first established in the 14th century and dedicated to Gwanseum-bosal, the Goddess of Compassion, whose bright white statue peers out from behind the temple, facing auspiciously toward the sea. The central pagoda is flanked by four stone lions, who represent joy, anger, sadness and happiness.
After walking the traditional 108 steps into the temple, passing the statues of the 12 animals representing the Chinese zodiac, visitors will spot a tall white pagoda to the left. Signs in Korean and English label it the Traffic Safety Pagoda.
Here, people leave offerings and say prayers for themselves and their loved ones, asking for safety behind the wheel and on the road. But long before there were cars in South Korea, this was an area to pray for the safety and success of the fishermen who helped build Busan’s livelihood.
There are also specific spots to pray to have a son, to pray for good grades in school and to pray for good health and a long life. The busiest day at the temple is January 1, when worshippers come for the chance to witness the first sunrise of the new year.
Originally, this temple was named Bomun, but its present-day moniker of Haedong Yonggungsa (Dragon Palace) came in 1974 when the head monk there reportedly had a vision of the goddess of mercy riding on the back of a dragon. Fittingly, there’s a sculpture of a bright blue dragon at the temple.
Some of the structures were destroyed by a fire in the late 1500s, and then rebuilt. Other, newer sections have been added in the 20th century as Busan’s star rose and South Korea became a wealthier, more powerful country.
Despite its seeming ubiquity, and the fact he’d seen countless photos already, Jang admits that he was still awed by Haedong Yonggunsa the first time he visited.
The guide grew up between South Korea and the United States, and work kept him mostly in Seoul. But as Lecirt grew, he joined a Busan tour as a regular guest so that he could experience the city for himself.
“Once you climb up those hills, and get to the open area where you can see the sculptures and the ocean view … it was quite amazing.”
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